|The first task is to remove the inner door handle assembly.|
Undo the two retaining screws, pull the handle out and detach the two actuating levers
Study the photo on the left to see how to remove the door-pull by pressing the two retaining clips..
Now remove all the trim-plugs using your tack-removal tool.
With the trim now removed, you can remove the bracket shown in the photo by undoing the two bolts.
|Turn the lock-retaining clip anticlockwise and remove. You will not be refitting this item. With the trim removed, disconnect the speaker wires.|
Using the supplied gasket as a template, mark the rear door for drilling. Observe the orientation of the gasket in the photo! Drill the holes, starting with a pilot drill and then apply touch-up paint.
Insert the zinc-coated backplate and reinsert the lock-barrel as shown in the photograph. Take note of the orientation of the backing plate.
Fit the self-adhesive gaskets to the stainless steel plate and apply a small amount of silicone around the threaded stud areas. Then fit the plate to the door.
|With the frontplate fitted, you can now fit the Nylock Locking Nuts. DO NOT over-tighten them! Two of the nuts are very awkward to access, so you will need to drill two access-holes as shown in the photo. Make sure that you drill these holes in a place which will be hidden behind the door trim. And remember to apply protective touch-up paint.|
Since this area of the door is double-skinned, you will need to drill a pilot-hole before using your large drill bit. With the holes drilled and the painted with touch-up paint, you can now fit the zinc-coated backing plate and reinsert the lock barrel.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
You can now reassemble the lock and door and test correct alignment with your key. Since you did not overtighten the locknuts, a small amount of movement is available by gently tapping the edge of the plate with a soft-faced mallet.
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