Why have a key when you can have a Key-Pad?
Keys wears holes in your pockets, keys can get copied, keys can be lost, Keys can be stolen.
OK OK, yes we all know keys have their downsides, but sometimes when you want access without the fuss of getting a key out, inserting it into the lock, undoing the lock, and finally depressing a lever and then after all that actually do what you are at the door to do, open and walk in!
Under most circumstances, this is not a problem, but if the door in question has a lot of traffic, say to an office, store room etc. then having to go through the process above every time you have to access the door would drive you mad.
So use a Digital Keypad instead.
Fitting a digital keypad, with a mag lock etc is not rocket science, OK you need to know how to strip a piece of wire, fit a plug on a piece of cable, and don't let the drill twist you instead of making a hole. if you have these basic skills then your gonna find fitting this kit a doodle.
OK let assume you have a blank canvas, you have a frame and the door.
You want to be fitting the Magnetic Lock at the top of the door (leading edge side), with the actual lock on the safe/secure side of the door, if the door opens out you may need some brackets, like Z/L brackets.
Then you need to consider where you can get power from. If it is a long way from the door, best to ensure that it is again available on the safe side but if not, try and find a source in a locked room that somebody cant just switch the power off and circumvent all your hard work. Also don't go running cables for 100’s of meters as you will have voltage drop, 20 maybe 30 meters max (you can double up on cores to increase power if you need to)
Best to see about putting the PSU (Power supply) near this power source and best the have a un-switched fuse spur fitted, but if this is getting a little out of hand, small bit of flex with a plug on it will cook the mustard for this project. The reason for locating the power supply near the source means that the cable you need to run from the power source is smaller and off course only carrying 12 volts, so if it gets damaged, or cut it is not going to electrocute anyone.
With the cable you will end up at the door at
some point, either from the ceiling above or the skirting below, either way you need to be getting yourself a piece of mini trunking (YT2) and you need to put this up along side the door frame, perhaps all the way up to the ceiling or down to the floor, it just makes for a better looking job.
Off this trunking which again should really be on the safe side of the door, you can create cut outs in the plastic to allow the cable to be fed to the magnet, door release, emergency break glass and a drill through the wall to the Key Pad on the other side of the door.
Normally but not always, run the cable from the power source straight into the keypad, most keypads will have spare space to pack a little cable when required. From the keypad you will need to run a bit of cable to
the push to release switch on the safe side. Normally the keypad will have connections to insert a push to release button into it. The purpose behind this, is the keypad will have a programmable time delay to operate the magnet. This means that you will not have to be pushing the switch at the same time as opening the door. this timer circuit can be programed for a 5 sec gap, which means you can push the button, release the button, then bring your hand over within 5 secs to open
the door. Simples :-)
Now that you have all the wires into the key pad and push to release button, you now need to run a cable from the keypad which is the power to the magnet to the magnet via the emergency override call point.
Normally this call point is green as this is the international color used for access control and safe to exit, similar to exit signs out of a building they are also colored green. This call point is either a breakable piece of glass or a resettable plastic push element. either one that you use the idea is that by activating this call point you will be isolating all power to the magnetic lock, thus in the event of an emergency, or that the push to release button fails of the key pad fails, by activating this call point you will know that the power will fail to the magnet and the door will become free to open.
Once past the above call point you will work your way up the trunking to the top of the door to the magnet. a simple connection to the mag and there you go all sorted. nice cup of tea as you find someone to hoover up and the jobs a good one.
For good measure get some welsh cakes with butter on them whilst you enjoy your tea and admire your master piece.
Now for testing.
You have wired it all up and now ready to power up the system.
Depending on the type of keypad used, you may hear some bleeping, or clicking. you may even hear a clunk as the magnet engages with the armature plate. if so, and the door feels locked secured. you now need to program in the codes, you need to test the push to release button, program the timer relay, and most important check that emergency door release call point. If all working, inspect the others hoovering abilities, collect tools and off you go with a job well done, may even have that second cup of tea.
Hmmm somethings not right .......
OK there are a few things that can cause this so you need to check the following and hopefully in this sequence. I am assuming you have a way of measuring 12 volts. perhaps you have one of the those electrical testers for car electrics, would work fine on the low voltage side.
Check to see you have power at the mag, if so then now check to ensure the mag is actually magnetized, you can do this with a bit of iron, your key ring would have metal of some sort on it. if that is working then it has to be a miss alignment off the magnet to the armature plate. these measurements are pretty critical so check alignment, elongate the pin holes and release the bolt a little to allow the plate to move a little more, should do the trick, if not re-assess the fitting and try again.
If there is no power at the mag, work your way back to the emergency release call point and check the connections there, check you have not wired it the wrong way round, so if you release the call point the magnet energizes (yes this has been known). if that is OK, then to the keypad and check to see if when the code is entered the power is energized, in which case this has also been wired the wrong way round. (and yes this has happened also in the past.)
If still no joy, disconnect the push to release button and make sure that it is not permanently closed.
If now, this all seems OK check that you have power, this is where you realize, that you did not switch it on and why did you not check this first. (LOL)
Well, thats about it really, all you need to know about fitting a keypad with a mag. here below is a list of materials and links to the kit that you may need to do the job. and off course, we are always on the phone for back up should you need it.
We have also done some simple drawings of the way the wiring goes in a typical keypad, push to release button and emergency call point to help you, obviously you will need to check with the bits you buy, but it gives you a great idea of what you need to do to complete the job.
Kit to use
Battery (if needed)
Z/L Brackets (if needed)
I hope this has been of help to you and perhaps give you the confidence to tackle the job, best of luck and remember, we are here to help
The rest of the kit like trunking, drills, screwdrivers etc, can be got at the local hardware store.
CEO and Head of the Tech Team @ LocksOnline